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Abundant Rose Garden with the Right Fertilizer

Feeding your roses, just like watering, is a very important aspect of rose gardening.  Seek out relevant and practical rose gardening advice on fertilizing your roses even before you start planting. Your roses need three essential natural elements, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, to grow to their full potential. Nitrogen encourages vigorous growth of foliage and canes. Phosphorus provides increased immunity to diseases. Potassium provides assistance in reproduction and development of sturdy roots.  A good fertilizer contains these three natural elements along with calcium, magnesium, in small quantities, and trace elements of manganese, iron, and boron.

rose gardening While synthetic fertilizers are manmade from petroleum and its by-products, organic fertilizers are obtained from decomposed fish, bone, seaweed, dried banana peels, manure, canola   pellets, etc. You will need to apply synthetic fertilizers frequently, as they do not last very long. Organic fertilizers slowly break down and release nutrients into the soil over a period making it a better choice.

You have to guard against over-fertilizing your roses. Excessive nitrogen can lead to ‘leaf burn’ or ‘leaf scorch’ causing leaves to turn brown or yellow and wither away. In extreme cases, your plant could also die if you don’t follow instructions carefully.

Sprinkle dry fertilizer on moist soil at the base of the plant after removing the top layer of mulch. Gently spread the fertilizer with a rake. Cover with mulch and water thoroughly. Mix liquid fertilizers carefully as per the instructions on the label. Spray at the base of the plant and directly on foliage. Do not spray fertilizers when the temperature is soaring to avoid leaf burn.  In spite of precautions, if your rose bush shows signs of leaf burn, rake out the fertilized layer of soil and water deeply. Water can flush out the excessive salts from the soil and restore balance.

Fertilizing at the time of planting can help your rose bush sprout new growth quicker than otherwise. In spring, you will need to fertilize for at least two weeks. In summer, fertilizing once in two weeks with a liquid fertilizer is sufficient. Remember that young plants do not need fertilizing until after their first bloom. Stop fertilizing a month and a half ahead of frost.  Do not fertilize in fall.

You need to frequently fertilize large shrub roses, climbers, and old garden roses, while hybrid teas don’t require much feeding. Use half the quantity of fertilizer for miniature roses.

Leaves with brown or purple edges show a definite lack of potassium while yellowed leaves are a sure sign of lack of iron or excessive calcium. You know it’s time to feed your roses if you notice any of these symptoms.

You can use various devices ranging from your own hand to a submersible pump to fertilize your roses. The criterion for determining what would work best for your garden is simply the size of your garden. Few roses mean you can sprinkle or spray the fertilizer. If you have more than fifty roses, you will find that using a siphon device or submersible pump drastically cuts the time you spend on fertilizing your roses.

Anthony Glover is passionate about roses and loves to help people by giving rose gardening advice so they can grow the roses they desire. His website is packed with great articles on all aspects of rose gardening, check it out it’s called RoseGardenAdvice.

Rose Bush Tips

Successful rose bush care, contrary to popular belief is really simple and easy if you follow a few simple rose bush tips. If you start off as easy as possible you will remain more motivated and in turn willing to learn more. You do not want your hobby to turn into a chore.

Choice

At this stage you only really have two choices to make, in this order, where your plant is going to be located in your garden and which rose bush to buy.

Location

History proves that the rose has been most successful across Europe, in the general latitude area where the weather is mild, with sunlight and rainfall but no real extremes. Therefore you simply want to copy this history; specifically rose bushes will need approximately six hours of sunlight daily and watering once a week. Also make sure the plant gets reasonable air circulation and drainage as this can prevent damp problems. Test for drainage by digging a hole about two feet deep and wide and filling it with water, if the water drains away in a few hours this is ideal.

Which Rose Bush To Choose?

Of course there are almost innumerable types of roses but as we’re concentrating on rose bushes best results are going to be achieved by using floribunda. The reason for this choice is because they tend to produce a lot of blooms, they’re versatile and can be shaped quite easily, they were developed decades ago and are therefore relatively hardy. Above all they can mature to be really quite striking.

Planting And Aftercare

Generally it is better to plant your new rose bush in a dormant period; I prefer early spring to avoid frosts. You simply need to provide a hole easily big enough to accommodate the root system and when filled in leaves the bud union about one inch above the normal ground level. Make sure to water well every day for the first two weeks.

Once this initial period is over, watering once a week is ideal so depending on your own location and weather conditions you may not have to water it yourself at all.

Pests And Diseases

The list is endless but don’t panic, with roses prevention is the key to success. If you’ve chosen your rose bushes’ location well you will have already gone a long way to preventing most problems already! Now after it’s planted the golden rule is constant checking and now the hard work of planting is done this should be a pleasure not a chore. If you encounter pests remove them with ideally an organic pesticide but try not to shower the plant completely

Mary Longbridge has been caring for all kinds of roses for longer than my vanity will allow me to admit. To learn more very effective ways to care for roses and more specifically rose bush tips go to http://www.rosestogrow.com and there I will be happy to share my knowledge with you as I am a contributing writer for the website

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Posted in flowergardening, Perennials |

Flower Bed Ideas – Flower landscaping

Asters, chrysanthemums, daylilies, irises, and ornamental grasses are good choices for use in flower borders. These can be highlighted with vines, shrubs, or attractive foliage plants. Choosing flowers with long-lasting blooms provide stronger emphasis throughout the changing seasons. For early blooms, peonies, geraniums, columbine, and miscellaneous spring-flowering bulbs can be utilized. Choose goldenrod, asters, mums, or phlox for late blooms. Annuals such as impatiens and dianthus are immediate choices to brighten up existing borders between seasons.

There are many different ways in which borders can be arranged. Double borders usually scamper along both sides of a path or down the sides of property. Most of the time, these borders have straight edges. Edging a double border with brick can make these straight edges more attractive. Formal borders that include roses look quite lovely when they are outlined with low, neatly pruned boxwood.

Other formal beds can be placed against dark backgrounds or hedges and stand out nicely when edged with cobblestones. Perennial borders can be edged with a continuous planting of one type of edging plant such as sweet alyssum, hardy pinks, candytuft, or lavender. Depending on the width, borders along a walkway or path can be edged with plants in a straight row or in masses. An island bed is surrounded by lawn. Position an island bed with an irregular shape that will fit the contours of your lawn and border plantings.

Place the tallest plants in the center with all other plant heights scaled down towards the outer edge. These can be edged with consistent placement of one plant, such as lamb’s ear, or groups of edging plants. You can also give the island bed an untamed appearance by allowing it to flow into the lawn to mimic a meadow. A mixed border consists of flowers which are placed in groups in and around shrubs and groundcover. Shrubs that are used with this type of border should complement the foliage and growth of the other plants.

For further interest, an accent can be integrated. Herbaceous borders can be designed using hedges, walls, or fences as backdrops. These types of borders can provide height and substance to the landscape. Incorporate climbing vegetation such as clematis, climbing roses, or ivy into the background to supply additional beauty. For winter attraction, ornamental grasses can be used. They make natural companions for herbaceous plants like salvia and campanula. A raised bed can save space and can be enclosed with bricks, timbers, or anything that gives shape and holds soil in. Slope these beds to encourage water run off. You can also build up the soil into a mound without any retaining edges.

Flower borders placed around the outer edges of a landscape provide a cleaner and less muddled appearance than numerous, traditional small beds. They can be worked into nearly any property. With the use of low-growing plants that have interesting foliage texture and defined edges from stones or other types of edging your border should contrast well with and add character to the flowers and surrounding lawn.

Adding stunning Borders to Flower Beds

A decorative border can be the difference between boring and making a flower bed really stand out. If you have thought that a border only helped with retention or just finishing a project, it is time to change that mindset. The right border will go a long way to making your garden more appealing to yourself and others that view it.

This is something that truly is limited only by your own creativity. Of course you can look in magazines, or at houses in your town for more ideas. Here are a few other ideas that you can use to finish your garden with a border.

For one, you can use plants for edging. This is probably the most common form of edging. There are several options available. Some of the more popular are using plants like shrubs, flowering plants, and small trees. These would be placed at the border of the flower bed. You would look for varieties that require minimal attention in regards to pruning them. You want them to be large enough to attract visual attention and give the look of being a border.

If you are looking for color, then flowering plants are a great option. Herbs are nice if you are looking for a hedge look to border your flowers.

Using Stone As A Border

There are three types of stone and rock borders that I recommend. Flagstone, bricks, and terracotta tile.

Bricks offer a lot of variety and choices in color and size. While many people opt to go with one style and one color, you can mix and match to create your own unique design with brick. Brick is easy to set up and great for drainage.

Flagstone often conjures images of an old garden. You can use flagstone to provide a visual divide between the lawn and your flower bed.

Terracotta tile is widely underutilized for the purpose of creating an edging for your garden. It comes in many shapes and sizes. They make a very unique and attractive border that will require no maintenance for you.

There you have it. Simple ideas that will provide you with a visually attractive and practical flower bed border solution.

How to keep your flower bed weed free!

I think every gardener agrees to weeds are part of the whole thing. No matter how hard you try, these little unsightly things keep popping up day after day and keep you on your toes yanking and pulling them out. It is a never ending job and can make even the most green of thumbs wither in disgust after awhile. If you identify with this at all, maybe it is time you did something about it once and for all. No, I am not talking about quitting gardening, but instead, installing landscape fabric to help eliminate your weed problem.

Landscaping fabric is the equivalent of putting a liner down in your flower bed. It comes in rolls and is easy to cut and lay anywhere around your flower beds. This fabric is a porous material that while allowing air and water to penetrate, it prevents sunlight, thereby all but eliminating those nasty weeds to begin popping up. Sure, the most committed ones may creep through from time to time, but I am sure you will find that weeds of any kind will be a rarity if you decide to go with using landscape fabric for your gardens and flower beds.

In addition to the fabric itself, you can put mulch right on top of it to further prevent the spread of unwanted weeds. Because the landscape fabric provides a durable base for the mulch, it will last much longer than usual as well. This helps to offset the cost of landscape fabric as it can be a bit more expensive than other types of flower bed liners, but its functionality and durability should more than make up for this extra expense.

So if you are really serious about combating your weed problem head on, you might want to consider laying down some landscape fabric as a first (and potentially last) measure. It can last for years, will not harm your current plants, and can work with both mulch and rock to create an attractive, weed free environment for your plant wonderland.

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Posted in flowergardening |

Planting Hydrangeas For Late Season Flower Garden Color

A common complaint among gardener is that late in the summer, before the fall foliage, there seems to be lull in garden color. There is, however, no shortage of shrubs which bloom in later in the season. Hydrangeas are one the most versatile. In fact, they are indispensable in the garden for summer color and foliage texture. No shrub border is complete without them.

Hydrangeas prefer part shade and rich organic soil. They prefer morning sun with afternoon shade; this will protect them from the hottest part of the day. If they get shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon they may look stressed due to the sudden rise in temperature. Hydrangeas need lots of water especially young plants since they tend to dry out quickly during the hot weather.

After planting be sure to mulch well, this will help the soil retain moisture as well as help prevent weeds from encroaching on your garden. Fertilize the shrubs in the spring and then again in late summer. Adding compost to the soil around the base of the hydrangea each spring will keep the soil rich.

Lacecap and nikko blue hydrangeas are both cultivars of (Hydrangea macrophyllla). Lacecaps are recognized by its ring of flowers surrounding a center of florets and nikko blue by it large pom-pom like flowers. You can

change the color of the blossoms of these varieties by changing the acidity of the soil. Add aluminum sulfate to make the soil acid. A pH level somewhere between 5 and 5.5 will result in blue flowers. Alternately, for pink flowers, make raise the pH level to 6.0 by adding lime, making the soil alkaline. You will need to repeat the this 2 or 3 times over the growing season and continue the process for as long as you want the change to continue.

The large (up to 15″ long) white flowers of the PeeGee hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculta) turn to a faded pink in the fall and are great for cutting and taking indoors. Because their large flowers often weigh down its stems, PeeGee hydrangeas require staking.

Oak Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) has a much different appearance than the other hydrangeas. Its foliage resembles that of the American oak. Its white blooms fade to pink in fall. Oakleaf hydrangeas grow to about 6′ and can tolerate more shade than other hydrangeas.

Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris) is a deciduous vine which clings to garden structures, walls and fences with aerial roots. Its flowers are white and have the characteristics of the lacecap hydrangea.

Though there are numerous choices when it comes to types of hydrangeas, there are some general rules of thumb to follow when planting and caring for them. When planting new hydrangeas you’ll need to add a mix of compost and peat moss to the existing soil. This will give the plant plenty of nutrients and the soil ability to retain water. Dig a hole approximately twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Place the hydrangea in the hole, making sure the top of the root ball matches the existing grade of the garden. Never install any plant below grade, its often detrimental to the health of the plant. Backfill about half way and water to remove air pockets. Finish filling the hole, water again and mulch. Planting in the spring or fall is best as the hot summer weather can stress hydrangeas.

In the spring prune broken branches and old flower blooms from the previous season. Don’t prune new shoots; they are where the new blooms will be. Prune in late summer, after blooming. Thinning the plant by reducing its number of stems by half will yield larger flower clusters.

Noted for their long lasting, late blooming flowers and their unique foliage, hydrangeas are one of the most versatile shrubs in the garden. Whether among a shrub border, climbing a garden structure or planted on its own as a specimen shrub hydrangeas are a wonderful addition to any garden.

This article was written by Tim Birch and he is the owner of GardenLeap, a garden magazine for garden enthusiasts.

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Posted in flowergardening, Landscaping, Perennials |

Save money with growing flowers from cheap flower seeds!

When searching for cheap flowers your trip to the local gardening center will convince you that flowers in pots, whether bright-faced annuals or statuesque landscape specimens, are not cheap. To save money and gain access to a vastly wider variety of cheap flowers and greenery, consider starting your own plants and flowerrs from seeds.

Among the easiest of all the cheap flowers to grow are sunflowers (Helianthus spp). From 15 foot tall towering giants to knee high imps, brilliant yellow, ivory, mahogany or flaming orange petals surrounding a dark brown center, sunflowers make a fine choice for the gardener interested in effect, ease and pleasure. Happy birds flock to the giant drooping seed heads when they ripen in late summer, and the smaller blossomed sunflowers will draw butterflies in clouds.

Few flowers are as rewarding as the sunflower for child and adult alike. Sunflowers are the ultimate “kid” flower. The seeds are large and easy to handle, they come up quickly after planting and some sunflowers sprout so fast you can almost see them grow! Plant a large block of mammoth sunflowers, leaving an open space in the center big enough for a ‘secret’ meeting spot, or a put in a row of midget sunflowers that bloom right at eye level for your toddler. Any way you do it, there’s a sunflower for every purpose and they are all delightful.

Another excellent great flower choice is the nasturtium (Tropaeolum Majus). Again, like the sunflower, nasturtiums are easy and gratifying for your budding gardner, and lush and sophisticated enough for the adult. Add in that the leaves,flowers and buds are all edible and the “nasty” with its orange, apricot or mahogany blossoms and upright or trailing stems takes its rightful place at the top of your favorite flower list.

A row of nasturtium seeds right along the front of the garden bed as a sentinel of bug repellants. Or make up a hanging basket for “nastys” with a trailing habit and hang it where it gets a lot of sun, but some afternoon shade and watch the butterflies and hummingbirds come by for a visit. This is double “bang for your buck”, cheap flowers and hummingbird antics! Nasturtium flowers come in the plain orange variety, or plant newer hybrids with double, ruffled blossoms and pastel colors that are easy on the eyes.

Not to be forgotten in a listing of cheap flowers that are easy to grow from seed are heirloom sweet peas (Lathyrus odorata). Notice the “heirloom” part of the name. Hybridizers swapped size for scent, so newer varieties have larger blooms but lack that essential quality. With the same assets that recommend sunflowers and nasturtiums for children, heirloom sweet peas are brilliantly colored, quick growing and attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds. Trained up wires on a wall, a trellis or tumbling over the back fence, heirloom sweet peas just can’t be beat. Is there anything more charming than a muddy fisted child offering you a bouquet of sweet peas?

These few choices are a small introduction to the wonder and ease of growing flowers from seed. There are literally thousands upon thousands of choices. Some seeds can be found around the world, some no further away than your own region. Some seeds need to be cosseted and pleaded with, others seem to sprout in your hand. Whatever your level of gardening expertise, there’s a seed for you and a whole bunch of cheap flowers waiting to be enjoyed.

Natural Wild Flower Seeds

Whether you have a big empty space in your yard, or a small patch in a little back garden, the solution to getting an almost maintenance free patch of wonderful colors is to spread wild flower seeds. In today’s world, you can get seeds shipped to you from all over the world. Not all will thrive well in your climate, so attention has to be paid to the needs of every wild flower mix. Nevertheless, you can create a carpet of color with relatively little effort.

When deciding on wild flower seeds, the first thing to consider is the amount of sunlight it will get, and choose the flowers accordingly. Sun loving flowers will not do well between trees, and shade loving wild flowers won’t do well in the blazing desert sun.

The biggest decision will have to make will be what kind of pattern, if any, should you give your garden? Should you plant in patches of colors or use a mixture of seeds and let nature take it’s course? The jury is still out. You can do whatever pleases your eye.

Preparing the soil is very important when thinking of using wild flower seeds. To enable the seeds to germinate, the area should be clean of weeds and surface roots. If you like to, you can use pesticides. It will kill the weeds, but will stay in the ground.

You could turn the soil over and clear it by hand, if the area is not to big, or you can cover the area with plastic sheeting for about two weeks and let the sun bake the weeds away and the plastic prevent the top layer from getting any moisture.

When that is done, all you have to do is create grooves with a rake, and water the area thoroughly. Mix the wildflower seeds with some soil, soil being twice as much as the seeds, and sow. Keep the wildflower seeds hydrated until they germinate and grow a stalk. Now you can put the watering on a schedule and step back and enjoy watching them grow. From now on water will be all the wildflowers will need.

Wildseed Farms in Texas has an incredible selection of wild flower seeds and about 350,000 visitors a year to watch the flowers those seeds produce. The Wildflower Seed is a company in Napa Valley, California that has mixture per regions of the country and special mixes like poppies or butterfly-hummingbird mix and a cut flower mix.

A carpet of color in your yard or in the bare spot in the front of the house is not that difficult or expensive to achieve if you are using wild flower seeds as your primary method.

Fay Salmons writes about wild flower seeds at http://www.bettergardensupplies.com

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Posted in Annuals, flowergardening, Garden Flowers, Perennials |

Pre Planned Gardens – An Easy Flower Garden Paradise in Bloom

For the beginning gardener, or the veteran with little time to produce a brand-new garden from scratch, pre planned gardens design can be the way to go. These kinds of pre-planned gardening designs take the guess-work out of selecting plants that will work well together and create a beautiful, professional-looking garden.

Pre-planned gardening designs come in a vast variety of plans, featuring everything from designs for shady or sunny locations, to designs made for butterflies and birds. It is also possible to select varieties that target one type of plant, for example, hostas, vines, day lilies or lilacs. Some greenhouses and online retailers even offer selections specific to fall or spring planting or shade gardens and drought resistant gardens that vary by region and climate.

These pre-planned gardening designs can vary in price from the very simple and inexpensive, often as little as $25 – $30, to as much as $150 for rare or large designs. Ultimately, the cost is not much more for a pre-planned garden than one planned yourself; getting a professional to do it can easily double or triple that cost.

One exceptionally lovely pre-planned design, the Spring Hill Three-season shade garden, is available at the Spring Hill website for only $70 and includes a very simple, easy-to-duplicate planting guide, and 17 hardy, easy-to-grow plants in a beautiful array of colors and textures. This garden will fill a 14 by 4 foot area the entire growing season. Click here to go to the SpringHillNursery.com website.

 

More choices of preplanned flower gardens from Spring Hill Nursery

 

#1 Three-Season Garden  Here’s a chance to plant a spectacular flowering garden that will brighten your landscape with constant color from spring to fall. It contains a total of eight easy-to-grow perennials ideal for gardens in hardiness zones 4-8. The plants will thrive in areas with full sun to partial shade. Buy the Three-Season Garden…

 

 

#2 Three Seasons of Beauty Garden  Here is a perfect flower garden up to a 6′ x 12′ bed and it is planted with perennials and shrubs to provide a continuous display of floral and foliage color from spring, all through the summer, until the hard frosts of fall! It’s an easy-to-adapt idea that will give any area of approximately 72 sq. ft. (6′ x 12′) around your home a truly professional look—with a minimum of work and without a serious drain on your pocketbook. These 25 prime-quality plants will grow well in full sun to partial shade areas.

 

 

#3  Drought Tolerant Sun Garden  You’ll really enjoy this colorful Drought Tolerant Sun Garden, especially during those lazy, hazy days of summer when water is at a premium. While your neighbors spend time trying to keep their water-intensive flower gardens alive, you’ll show off this easy to grow and low-maintenance garden, while relaxing in your backyard with a cool drink.

All summer long you’ll appreciate the riot of colors that will keep coming from this rich and lush garden. Exciting Zebra Grass has unique, striated foliage that moves in the warm summer breezes and Blue Fragrant Lavender will scent the air with a pleasing fragrance. Visitors will stop in their tracks for the unique, steel-blue blooms of Blue Sea Holly or watch the hundreds of butterflies alight as living ornaments on the Gay Butterflies Butterfly Weed.

While the illustrated garden occupies a 7′ x 4′ area, these same 8 perennial varieties can be arranged to fill any 28-sq.-ft. area with drought-tolerant color and beauty. Every pre planned garden comes with full planting instructions and an easy-to-follow diagram.

 

 

When purchasing a pre-planned design it is important to ensure all the varieties included will grow well in the climate in which they’ll be planted. Many experienced greenhouses and online retailers will specify which zone is best for their plants, but make sure to check as there is nothing more heartbreaking than falling in love with a perfectly gorgeous design only to find, once it is in the ground, that the climate is all wrong.

If you are purchasing online, you will want to try to find out as much as you can about the company. Some customers find themselves unhappy with the plants selected, or finding they arrive damaged or sickly. Investigate the return policy and any complaints with the Better Business Bureau. Unlike purchasing from a bricks-and-mortar greenhouse, there is no control over the health of the plants sent to you, but usually online nurseries give you a 100% satisfaction guarantee up to one year.

It is also possible to find pre-planned gardening plans online, where you can print a list of plants, instructions and a garden layout right at home. You then take your list of plants to your local greenhouse where they can help you find the right varieties or suggest substitutions for plants that won’t suit your region or soil type. This, obviously, requires a little more work on the gardener’s part as you may find yourself visiting several different greenhouses in order to find the right plants. However, the upside is this will give the garden more of a customized feel and allow you to actually move among the plants and select which ones you want to take home with you.

Pre-planned gardening designs can be a terrific way to save time while still having a vibrant, lush garden to enjoy. It can also be a fun way to introduce a child to gardening or explore varieties of plants you might not otherwise have purchased on your own.

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Posted in flowergardening, Garden Flowers, Shopping |

Summer Flowers – Top Ten List for Your Summer Garden

One of the simplest, most enjoyable tasks for beginning and advanced gardeners alike is choosing summer flowers for your summer garden.  Every gardener has their favorite summer flowers.  If you are looking to discover your favorites, here is a list of favorites that many gardeners recommend and find pleasure in.

Pink Cone Flower – This is a wonderful selection to add to any garden bed, especially one that has full sun.  The flower grows up to 3’ tall, so they make a good choice for the back of the flower bed or in the center if the bed is a circular, oval or kidney-shaped.  Cone flowers will bloom from mid-summer into the fall.

Shasta Daisy – Like the Pink Cone Flower, the Shasta Daisy is a tall flower that can withstand the full sun and heat of the summer.  Blooming time can vary from all summer long to mid-summer through fall.

 

Brown-Eyed Susan – Not quite as tall as the Cone or Shasta Daisy, this flower is bright to deep orange with a brown center.  It also is sun-sturdy, and the blooming time will vary from all summer to mid-summer through fall.

Lily of the Valley – A very fragrant flower that is a great plant for a front border as it only grows to 6”-8” tall.  The small white, bell-shaped flowers bloom late spring into early summer, but the green leave and stem remain all summer.

Hostas – Makes for a great border plant and comes in a variety of green shades, and some are even variegated with white.  The low, leafy plants come up in the spring and bloom tall stemmed flowers from their centers in mid-summer.

Heirloom Roses – Different from the hybrid roses sold in flower shops, Heirloom Roses are hearty sun-worshipers and come in a multitude of colors and shades.  They can grow on trellis’, fences, or in a bush and make incredible summer flowers.

Pansies and Violets – These are great summer flowers for flower beds, and for potted plants to adorn your front porch.  These annual flowers will bloom all summer long if well maintained. and will add tons of color to your garden palate.

Butterfly Bushes – Attract butterflies and pollinating bees to your summer garden by adding one of these bushes.  They are very fragrant, bloom most of the summer, and can withstand summer heat.

Day Lilies – One of the most popular medium sized summer flowers, and one of the most varying ones.  Flower shoots can grow as tall as 4’ and flower color will range form white to orange to red.

Gladiolas – This tall, spear shaped flower loves the sun, and will continue blooming as long as the “spear” continues growing.  It’s a great summer flower for adding accents to greenery background.

Ajuga – A low lying ground cover, Ajuga is a good choice for space between flowers and bushes.  Mid-summer, it blooms a beautiful small purple flower, and is fragrant.

With all your summer flowers, be sure to “dead head” – pinch off dead blooms – and water on a regular basis, especially for full sun gardens.  By choosing the right summer flowers and properly maintaining them, you can enjoy your colorful garden all summer long.

Summer Flowers – It’s All About Planning

Summer is a wonderful time for flowers, yet many gardens start to look bare of color or simply wilt when the summer heat strikes. That’s because gardeners often plant for a spring flush. Those flowers that bloom in spring fade off by summer because the extra heat does not suit them.

Yet there are many beautiful blooms that come into their own with that extra summer heat, so adding these to your planting will keep your garden looking a riot of color throughout summer. Both annuals and perennials bloom beautifully in the summer heat so choose some of each.

Annuals must be planted every year as their name suggests. They are usually only good for one season, so require a bit more work. But occasionally you will get an annual to come up the second year. Sunflowers, cosmos, salvia and marigolds are favorite annuals for summer flowers. Snow in summer; coxcomb and the globe amaranth are three less common flowers that thrive in the heat of summer, while angelonia, perilla and the sun coleus also make good choices.

Perennials are those plants that last for more than one season. Some last for two years, while other types last for several years – or are permanent. If you choose perennials with a long blooming season you will get more enjoyment out of them. Not all perennials are as showy as annuals, but some, like azaleas are a mass of bloom, albeit for a short period of a few weeks.

Longer blooming perennials include Astilbe, purple coneflower, Gaillardia, Rudbeckia and various daylilies – but there are many more. Many times you can cut perennials back after the first bloom and they will bloom again. Tradescantia, perennial geraniums, salvias and veronicas will do this.

If you have a fence or trellis to cover, you could add some of those fantastic flowering vines for lush summer flowers. Black-eyed Susie with its cheerful orange flowers and jet black eyes will brighten up any garden, while the blue/mauve trumpets of the morning glory vine add a lovely blue haze. The night blooming moonflower will fill your garden with a glorious fragrance – there are many more to delight the heart of every gardener.

Bulbs need a whole book to describe their many delights. Dahlias come in all shapes, sizes and colors, from tiny, neat-pedaled balls to huge, shaggy flower heads and everything in between. They are hardy too; so don’t pass up a chance to pop a dahlia tuber into your garden. Cannas, gladiolus and tuberose love sunny spots.

Dutch Gardens, Inc.

Hans writes about flower gardening tips at http://www.gardening-guides.com he is a enthusiastic gardener and finds most of his inspiration working there  Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Hans_Dekker

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Spring Flowers Top 10 picks ~ Part 2

spring flower red tulip

6. Tulips: Loved throughout the world, a “big player” in the spring flowers group!

There are several thousand types of tulips which come in a variety of heights, colors, and floral shapes. If you can imagine the color, chances are that you will find the exact shade you want!

These cup shaped flowers can grow anywhere from 10-30 inches tall and thrive in soil that is slightly alkaline and well-drained. Because there are so many varieties, tulips can bloom almost all spring long!

Tulips planted in drifts look fantastic but they also make a bold statement when planted in small clumps. Make sure to include some in your spring display! Zones: 4-9


7. Hyacinth/Hyacinthus orientalis: Hyacinths have an unmistakable fragrance and appearance and arrive during early spring. The stiff stem supports a spike of bell-shaped flowers that can grow up to 18 inches tall.

It is available in many shades to include: pink, blue, white, yellow, purple, mauve, and apricot. This beautiful flower can be planted as an individual specimen or in formal group settings. Either way, it will make a bold statement in your garden! Zones: 5-9

8. Muscari/Grape Hyacinth: This lovely fragranced but hardy flower gets its name because it looks like a miniature cluster of up-side down grapes. Muscari are available in blue, purple, mauve, and white. Depending on the variety it blooms anywhere from early to mid spring. They grow up to 8 inches tall and naturalize easily when planted in grassy or slightly wooded areas. Easy to grow….make sure you plant some! Zones: 4-9

9. Lily-of-the-valley/Convallaria majalis: This pretty little flower is made up of pink or white clusters of bell shaped flowers. Lily-of-the-valley emerges from a root section called a rhizome or pip, grows 6-10 inches tall, and blooms late in the spring. They do best when planted in a partially shaded location in moist, acid soil.
These spring flowers grow quickly and the dense growth makes an excellent ground cover that will naturalize easily in colder climates. The sweet fragrance of this low-care plant makes it the natural choice for your spring garden! Zones: 3-7

10. Persian Buttercup/Ranunculus asiaticus: Without a doubt, this flower reminds me of the flowers you might expect to see in the Land of OZ….bright & perky! It blooms in the late spring and into early summer. This spring flower grows 12-24 inches tall and comes in a rainbow of colors. Grown from a tuberous root, this plant performs best in full sun or light shade. Give this whimsical plant a try…you will be glad that you did! Zones: 4-8

How to prepare your spring flowering bulbs in the fall

Flower bulbs need a good, long, winter’s sleep. Like some people we know, if they wake up before they are fully rested they get kind of cranky, and then they don’t bloom well at all.

Actually what happens is during a mild winter, the soil stays too warm and the bulbs begin to come out of dormancy early. They start to grow, and once the tips emerge above the soil line, they are subject to freezing if the temperatures dip back down below freezing. And that’s usually what happens. After the bulbs have emerged, they freeze and then don’t bloom at all, or if they do it’s a very sad display.

Another reason this happens is because the bulbs are not planted deep enough. They may have been deep enough when you planted them, but as the soil goes through the freezing and thawing process, the bulbs can actually work their way up in the ground. One way to keep your flower bulbs sleeping longer, which will protect them from freezing, is to mulch the bed.

In the fall just apply a 3-4″ layer of well composted mulch. This layer of mulch will do a couple of things. It will maintain a higher moisture content in the soil, which is good as long as the soil isn’t too soggy. Well composted mulch also adds valuable organic matter to the planting bed. Organic matter makes a great natural fertilizer.

A 3-4″ layer of mulch also acts as an insulator. It will keep the soil from freezing for a while, which is good because you don’t want the bulbs going through a series of short cycles of freezing and thawing. Then when the temperatures drop below freezing and stay there for a while, the soil does eventually freeze. Then the mulch actually works in reverse and keeps the soil from thawing out too early. Keeping it in a frozen state is actually good because the bulbs remain dormant for a longer period of time.

When they finally do wake up it is spring time, and hopefully by the time they emerge from the ground the danger of a hard freeze is past and they will not be damaged. If you can keep them from freezing, they will flower beautifully. The extra organic matter will help to nourish the bulbs when they are done blooming, and the cycle starts all over again.

We also plant annual flowers in the same beds with our spring bulbs. By the time the danger of frost is past and it’s time to plant the annuals, the top of the bulbs have died back and are ready to be removed. The mulch that is added in the fall also helps to nourish the annual flowers, as well as improve the soil permanently. Any time you add well composted organic matter to your planting beds, you are bound to realize multiple benefits. The key words here are “well composted”. Fresh material is not good.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or In your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.

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Spring Flowers :: Top 10 Picks

Spring flowers have begun to bloom now that winter is almost over and the days are getting longer…finally! Do you look forward to the awakening garden with the first colors of spring like I do?

red tulip yellow tulip bleeding heart hyacinths

After a long winter, brightly colored blooms begin to push their way up through the moist soil.

They becoming beacons of color that are soon followed by robins hunting for worms, leaves sprouting on trees, and rich shades of green that blanket the earth.

Wait, wait, wait! It isn’t spring, it is only mid-August. If you dream of having beautiful spring flowers in the spring, then now is the time for action!

August – September: Shopping and planning

Late September – Early November: Planting

Spring: The Fruits of your labor…a beautiful burst of color and fragrance!

Many of the “early birds” of spring( spring flowers ) are grown from bulbs. If you are new to planting bulbs, than you are will be pleasantly surprised because this is one of easiest ways to bring color to your garden and yard. Flower bulbs that bloom during the spring need to be planted in the fall.

You should be done about 6 weeks before the ground freezes or when the ground temperature falls below 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Bulbs need to be planted in soil that drains well. Dig a hole and place the bulb with the pointed end facing up. Cover the bulb with soil and water well. If you live in an extremely cold climate, mulch can be placed over the flower bulbs to keep them protected during the harsh winter.

Do nothing else…wait for spring…..and enjoy the blooming color!

Spring Flowers – - Top 10 List

Flower Picture Pick of the Day

Gardening Tips:

Winter Storage Some bulbs and plants for spring planting are not winter hardy in all areas in the country and will not survive if left in the ground or outdoors year round.

Remove these plants from your garden in the fall and store them indoors until the following spring. After the danger of frost has passed in the spring, replant them in your garden or move their pots outside for another season of beautiful blooms. This takes a little work and some storage space, but is actually quite simple.
1. Dig the tender plants or bulbs from your garden just before the first frost.
2. Dry them for a few days in a frost-free location. Then remove any remaining foliage and excess soil and move them indoors.
3. Store in a cool, dry and dark place for the winter. Some will benefit from being stored in peat moss or sand and others prefer to be stored in a warm location.

1. Snowdrop/Galanthus nivalis: The snowdrop has the distinction of being one of the earliest bulbs to bloom, sometimes while snow is still on the ground! The small delicate bell-shaped flowers are white and tipped with green. They grow 8-12 inches tall and look beautiful when grown in clumps around the base of a tree or mailbox, or scattered throughout the lawn.

Since they are small, plant many of them to create a pleasing effect. The bulb will naturalize easily and prefers cool moist soil and a semi-shady or full sun location. They are a sure cure for the winter blues! Hardiness Zones: 4-8

2. Spring Snowflake: This flower is very similar to Snowdrops as it blooms in early spring and naturalizes easily in colder climates. The plant grows 6-10 inches tall and bears fragrant white bell shaped blooms.

It prefers a damp location, sandy/humus rich soil, and will thrive in full sun or light shade. It can be grown in containers, rock gardens, and of course under trees and shrubs. This easy care plant will guarantee that spring is on the way! Hardiness Zones: 4-8

3. Winter Crocus/Crocus tommasinianus: The Winter Crocus as its name implies, bloom very early in the spring. It grows 3-5 inches tall and comes in a variety of colors to include: white, yellow, purple, mauve, and bronze. The small cup shaped spring flower has 6 petals with a three spiked orange stamen. Winter Crocus prefer a cold, sun-dappled environment (needs more sun exposure in extremely cold areas) and will naturalize easily in lawns and rock gardens. These little “gems” will brighten your yard!
Hardiness Zones: 5-9

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4. Dutch Crocus/Crocus vernus: The extremely popular Dutch Crocus blooms in early spring, about 2 weeks after the Winter Crocus appear. Dutch Crocuses are available in a rainbow of colors to include: purple, white, blue, mauve, yellow, and several striped varieties are also available.

Semi-shade is appropriate in most areas but the flower does need a sunny location to promote blooming in extremely cold climates. Plant in large drifts in well-drained soil for a bold splash of color, or plant a handful under trees, in planters, or in rock gardens. Dutch crocuses naturalize very easily and require very little care. A must-have for your spring garden!
Hardiness Zones: 3-9

5. Daffodil/Narcissus: The word Daffodil is almost synonymous with the word spring. This gorgeous flower blooms early to mid-spring depending on the variety. They come in creamy white, bi-color, and all imaginable shades of yellow and gold. Daffodils grow up to 18 inches tall, are easy to maintain, naturalize easily, and can be grown indoors and out. Plant in full sun or light shade. They truly are a gardener’s best friend!
Hardiness Zones: 5-9

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Spring Flowers schedule

Plan….Buy…..Plant….Enjoy!

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Perennials Provide a Riot of Color – Garden Flowers 101

Garden perennials are popular with many gardeners, though there is a danger that the new gardener will over-plant them as they wait for those already planted to mature. The secret with perennials is patience, and if you want something to add color to your garden while you wait, then plant some annuals for the first year until the perennials really show their true colors.

A perennial needs at least a year before it flowers properly and that is when some gardeners get impatient. In year two, although you get some show of flowers, you will still not be impressed and might start to wonder why you chose perennials. That feeling totally changes, however, with the explosion of color in year three. That is when you will start to regret the extra plants you put in because the first ones did not seem to be doing anything.


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Once your perennials are established it will seem very easy just to sit back and admire your work, but you will have no time for that. Perennials do not last for ever, and the definition of the term is one that lasts for more than two years. As some die away you will have to remove and replace them with fresh plants. You can even move them about the garden since perennials are ideal for replanting. In fact many gardeners have a space set aside for starting off new garden perennials in a variety of colors that they can use later for filling in gaps as plants die. This avoids them having to wait until the plants mature.

It is not easy to fill an empty space in a row of flowers if you have to wait two or three years for a plant to flower, and a small personal nursery area is a good idea and quite common with gardeners experienced in growing perennials. Others fill spaces with annuals, but they never quite look as though they belong.

Growing perennials takes experience. Perhaps not so much the growing, but the planning and envisaging what your garden will look like in three years time. It is not easy to space your plants correctly since they will spread out a great deal more than you think as they mature, and some such as asters, can continue to bloom when others have died out. The overall plan of a garden should take several aspects of the plant into consideration, such as height, spread, color, whether it prefers shade or direct sunlight, and how long they flower for.

As mentioned, the aster can bloom past September into the fall, and you don’t want to plant asters together with summer blooms that die off in August. You will then be left with some asters all on their own and, while asters are lovely plants, it might not be as you planned it. Perennials can bloom right through from April to November, sometimes even later depending on the climate and the weather conditions.

Let’s face it, there are more to perennials than most people think, and they include plants as diverse as rhubarb, daffodils, and other bulbs, corms and rhizomes, lilac and even dandelions and daisies. You also have the soft, fleshy stemmed herbaceous perennials such as the peony. These have fragrant flowers, the smell of which varies between varieties and come in reds, pinks and whites.

The beautiful blue cornflower, also known as bachelor’s buttons because they were once worn by bachelors when they went courting, are excellent flowers for cutting, and the lovely flower belies the foliage that can get quite ugly as it ages. For this reason cornflower is best grown among other flowers with sufficient foliage to hide that of the cornflower.

Lobelia plants can be either annuals or perennials, and the delicate purple lobelia is very attractive. Although most people generally regard lobelia as being a purple plant, there are over 350 species of lobelia, and the short-lived perennial lobelia cardinalis has red flowers that appear in the summer through to the fall. The lobelia siphilitica (Azure Sage), on the other hand, does not appear till the fall and has delicate deep blue flowers. These plants prefer to be planted in clumps where they show their colors to best advantage.

The geranium is another garden perennial that looks good in borders, beside ponds or even as ground cover. The true geranium is a hardy perennial with a fabulous range of red to blue colors that love well drained soil and shady conditions. There are over 300 species, and new hybrids coming along all the time.

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In summary, garden perennials have to be understood, and once the gardener new to them gets past the first two or three years then he or she will be hooked. They provide a riot of color to any garden, large or small, and are able to be easily moved and transplanted to suit your particular planning needs.

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:: Flowers for Shade Gardens ::

Problem Solved: Plants and flowers for shade gardens

Is most of your property is in shade? Are you frustrated because you can’t get anything else to grow? Are your beautiful big shade trees that look so wonderful in the summer starting to feel like a curse? You want a solution, right? Your answer is to discover which plants and flowers will thrive in the environment referred to as “shade gardens”. Finding the right flowers for shade gardens is easier than you might think.


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Problem #1
One of the biggest problems when trying to grow plants under trees is that large trees often absorb much of the nutrients and moisture contained in the surrounding soil.

Because of this, you should feed and water individual plants within these locations on a regular basis.

It is also highly recommended to remove fallen leaves and debris to avoid the suffocation of plants. Additionally, don’t allow snow to accumulate on shrubs and small plants as it will weaken the plants and cause damage.

Problem #2
Many plants and flowers require sunny locations. If you choose one of these plants for your shady location, you will not be happy with the results.

The following is a partial listing of plants that thrive in full shade. Perennials that will successfully grow in full shade are

monkshood
lily-of-the-valley
bleeding heart
shooting star
hosta
dwarf forget-me-not
bluebell
and various ferns

Ground cover in fully shaded areas can enhance surrounding flowers and shrubs. Some you may want to consider are:

wild ginger
periwinkle
lungwort
bunchberry
kenilworth ivy
ground ivy
creeping buttercup

Recommended Partial shade annuals include:sweet alyssum, snapdragon, wax begonia, basketflower, coleus, Chinese forget-me-not, flowering tobacco, and clarkia.

Some perennial plants for partial shade are

columbine
periwinkle
cyclamen
day lily
false spirea
foxglove
butterfly lily
dropmore

Here is a short list of shrubbery that will prosper in partially to fully shaded locations:

azaleas
snowhill hydrangea
honeysuckle
rhododendrons
burning bush
weeping forsythia
flowering dogwood
bayberry
oak leaf hydrangea
mountain laurel

Check the plant hardiness zone map for your particular location before planting these recommended shrubs, ground cover, and flowers for shade gardens. This will also provide valuable information on when to plant. You can also check with your local garden center to see if a particular plant will grow well in your area.

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Enjoy the shade and the beauty it offers by planting plants you know will thrive in it!

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